Everything We Know about the Bride's Emerald Jewelry at the Ambani Wedding (2024)

From the moment the “brick sized emerald” was spotted on Mrs. Nita Ambani during the pre-wedding festivities, all eyes have been on jewels worn during the lead up to the marriage of Anant Ambani and Radhika Merchant. And then of course the question: if those were the pieces wore during the pre-wedding party, what could possibly top it at the wedding? The July 12 ceremony took place in the Ambani’s incredible cultural hub, Jio World Centre, and in that ceremony, we got our jewelry answer. The bride Radhika Merchant honored both Indian culture and tradition and her own family history with her choice. The central necklace of diamonds and emerald was designed by Nisha Mehta of Nisha M, a third generation company of jewelers based in Mumbai. It was, they explain on their site, “intricately designed to compliment her mother’s antique choker to complete an awe-inspiring look.”

According to bridal consultant Nisha Kundnani of Bridelan India, a bridal styling and consultant for South Asian weddings also based in Mumbai, the bride paired the wedding necklace with her mother’s antique jewelry. The central necklace of emeralds and diamonds is designed as a five long strand of diamonds with a large pendant of emerald and diamond suspended from it. Emeralds are historically and culturally significant in Indian culture, honoring both the past and India’s significant influence on international jewelry design, but they are also thought to be good omens. They were first brought to India from Egypt’s iconic Cleopatra mines and are thought to represent the powerful planet of Mercury which has direct impact on daily lives. The name for emerald itself means “the green of growing things” a perfect symbol at a wedding symbolizing a new chapter.

Kundnani describes the bride’s wedding jewelry to T&C this way: “On July 12th, the wedding day, Radhika Merchant looked radiant, filled with emotion and love and was wearing heirloom family jewels (in antique uncut diamonds) gifted to her by her mother Shaila Merchant. The larger, five-row necklace was by Mumbai based jeweller Nisha Mehta. The necklace is made in syndicate polki (uncut diamonds) and also features large Zambian emeralds, the centre piece is in emerald cut and laced with tumble emerald drops.”

She adds, "While everyone is focussing on the wealth of the Ambanis, what the bride wore at the main wedding ceremony has deep cultural resonance and will become a big part of the larger narrative of authenticity. The wedding jewellery worn by Radhika Merchant is deeply personal, symbolic of honouring her matriarchal family traditions and carrying within it a broader message that even if you are going to be one of the richest heirs, you are ultimately the bride who curated her look with intention and meaning."

Nisha Mehta explained to Kundnani how it all happened: “Mrs Ambani has been buying jewelery with us since the first wedding in their family, that of their daughter Isha Ambani. However, I was introduced to Radhika by another family friend as well.”

Sabyasachi Mukherjee, founder and designer of Sabyasachi, whose designs were seen on the groom as well as several notable guests at the wedding, explained the meaning of emeralds to us this way: "Indian art and craft reached its zenith during the Mughal period when the most popular and glorious jewelry was crafted from emeralds and spinels. The royal class, dressed in embroidered finery adorned with beautiful colored stones, represented the apex of the social hierarchy. This fascination with dressing like royalty has remained in India, so that any large wedding will showcase pieces of exceptional emeralds accompanied by uncut, old mine cut, rose-cut, and full-cut diamonds; or jewelry featuring ruby and spinel."