Q-When I have to drill pilot holes for a wood screw I always have difficulty determining the correct size pilot hole to drill. In soft wood I know the hole can be quite a bit undersize-in fact, if I am driving in a small screw all I do is punch a hole with an awl. However, when I am driving in large- or medium-size screws, especially when working in harder woods, then I have more of a problem. I know the size of the pilot is more important: Too small and the screw may break or be impossible to drive home; too loose and it won`t hold properly. I finally bought a whole set of numbered drills so I would have all sizes but still seem to waste time experimenting. Is there a simple rule of thumb?
A-There are published charts that give the size of the pilot hole recommended for a specific diameter (gauge) screw in both soft and hard woods. But there is a simple way that many pros use to determine the right size bit: The diameter of the drill should be just about equal to the solid body of the screw (without the threads) at about the middle of its length. The easiest way to do this is to hold the screw up to the light, then hold the drill bit in front of it. If the bit is the right size it should just cover the solid core of the screw, leaving only the threads sticking out on each side. For soft woods, the bit can be a little smaller in diameter.
Q-We just bought an old house with a brick fireplace painted with a dark brown glossy enamel. I would like to expose the natural bricks. Can you tell me the best way to remove the paint?
A-Use a semipaste chemical paint remover that can be washed off with water. (Follow the recommended safety precautions, especially those concerning ventilation.) Coat a couple of square feet at a time with the remover, laying it on as thick you can (cover the floor to catch drips). Allow to soak on the surface for about 15 or 20 minutes, then scrub off with a stiff brush dipped into detergent solution. You may have to go over each area several times, depending on how many layers have been applied. But even then, don`t be surprised if some of the paint remains deep in the pores of the brick and is almost impossible to remove.
Q-We live in an old house with high ceilings. The plaster ceilings are badly cracked and very rough from years of patching. We have tried repainting, but the paint peels. Is there some kind of covering we can put up without replastering?
A-You could cover the plaster ceilings with drywall panels or ceiling tile, but you would have to put up furring strips nailed into the overhead beams first to create a level surface. I believe it would be easier to put up a suspended ceiling that hangs on wires below the existing ceiling. Comparatively simple for a do-it-yourselfer to put up, these ceilings consist of aluminum rails that form a grid that is then used to support acoustical panels.
Q-I am planning to replace the carpet on my concrete basem*nt floor. When I took up the old carpet and the padding under it I noticed dampness under the padding. Should I use some type of sealant on this floor before putting down new carpet, and what type of carpet is recommended?
A-Applying concrete waterproofing sealer to the floor is not a bad idea, but this will not help much if there are leaks that allow water to come up through the floor. However, from your description the problem sounds like condensation. This time put down outdoor carpet without a padding, and I think you will have less of a problem.
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Write to Bernard Gladstone in care of Know-how, The Chicago Tribune, 435 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, Ill. 60611. Questions of general interest will be answered in future columns. Sorry, letters cannot be answered personally.
