Types of Silk Fabrics and Yarns
(Kyunkihar silk ki ek kahanihai!)
Silk is a magnificent fabric certainly. The favourite of Gods, thesymbol of royalty and love of saree connoisseurs- silk is as varied as thetypes of handloom available in India. The thread of silk is so delicate andfine that even experts and textile engineers, who identify the fabrics for aliving, can’t do it without the help of a magnifying glass. So, it is quiteokay to feel overwhelmed for us commoners when buying silk sarees online.
As per an anecdote, silk was first discovered by a Chinese empresswho found the silkworm accidentally. Since then we have come a long way and sodoes the silk, from being an exclusive for a rich man’s robes to six-yarders.We have discovered that the spiders produce the finest of silk, yes, muchbetter than the one thatBombyx mori silkworms provide. If this New Yorker post is to be believed, the future of the textileindustry is going to be spider-silk. However, until then, we can try and figureout the types of silk threads and fabrics available in India!
And why do you need to understand the nuances of different silkfabrics and learn the differences before buying a silk saree online, is becausenot all silk threads are equal. How a silk yarn is produced and processed canmake or break the look of a fabric. Besides, it is also the first and foremostfactor that decides the price tag of the drape you are eyeing.
The silk procured from silkworms in India is mainly classifiedinto these broad segments:
Types On the basis of silk moths or base material
Wild Silk Type
Instead of mulberry leaves, the wild silkworms or moths eat oakleaves and produce wild silk. It is heavier and has an uneven, rough texture toit.Commercially, this silk is also known as tussar silk. It is naturallyavailable in dark brown or grey colour and dyed later for the desired shade. Thereare four types of tussar silkworm varieties in India namely Indian tussersilkworm (AntheraeamylitteDury), Japanese tussar silkworm(AntheraeayamamaiQuerin) and Chinese tusser silkworm (Antheraeapernyi Guerin).The types of silk produced by these silkworms are as different as chalk andcheese.
There are more than 500 species of wild silkworms in Indiahowever, only a few are commercially viable to produce silk. Unlike themulberry silk, which is produced as one long thread, the wild silk is producedin the batches, by cutting the threads at irregular intervals.
Wild silk is also difficult to dye and bleach. However, severalmodern processes such as demineralization have emerged that remove the mineral reinforcementin the cocoon and can produce similar sheen as the mulberry one.
The estimated silk production of tussar silk is 130 tonnes on ayearly basis.
Mulberry Silk Type
Bombyx mori silkworms are domesticated silkworms. They feed on mulberry leaves only and the silk produced by them is the finest of them all. The silk has an extraordinaire sheen and has the signature ‘silky’ texture, silk is known for. It is also the most common of silk fabric and currently dominates the world silk market with more than 80 per cent share. It is the highest quality of silk available in the market for purchase. The history of mulberry silk can be traced back to Indus Valley Civilisation, where it was used to craft costumes of the royal family. The original white colour of the mulberry silk is due to the feeding of the host white mulberry plant.
India is the second-largest manufacturer of mulberry silk afterChina. The major mulberry silk producing states in India are West Bengal,Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka, Jammu and Kashmir and Tamil Nadu.
The silkworms are bred indoors and remain on the strict diet ofwhite mulberry trees.
Eri Silk Type
Eri silk is produced by the silkworm species called Philosamiaricini.The silkworms are found in Northeast India and in some parts of Japan andChina. The term, ‘Eri’ comes from the Assamese word, ‘Era,’ which means castoror arandi in Indian language, referring to their feeding on castor oil plantleaves. Besides Bombyx Mori, this is theonly silkworm species that is completely domesticated.
In China, the Eri silkworms feed on a different host plant calledBorkesseu, Ailanthus excelsa and the silk thus produced is called Ailanthussilk.
The texture of this silk is woolly and the original colour of thesilk is white. When the eri silk is processed without killing the silkworms, itis called the silk of peace, referring to its white colour. In India, it iscommercially sold as ‘Ahimsa Silk’ as the silk fabrics are processed when themoths have left the cocoon.
Muga Silk Type
Muga silk is produced only in Assam and nowhere else. This makesthis silk yarn one of the most coveted and rarest silks in the world. The word,‘Muga’ means ‘golden yellow’ in Assamese, referring to its original colour. Theorigin of the Muga silk can be traced back to the times of Ahom rulers. Therulers patronized this silk and preferred to wear clothes made from muga silk fibresonly. It is one of the most expensive too! The silkworm, Antheraeaassamensis issemi-cultivated. It is believed that the silkworm can’t even tolerate theslightest of pollution level and is extremely sensitive to climate changes.
Muga silk is known for its resilience. Besides being organic and natural, it is knownfor its longevity and often is a part of an heirloom. The lustre of the silkincreases with the age and the silk gets finer, like old wine. The muga silk ispreferred in its natural yellow colour but it is compatible with dyes andembroidery threads. Muga silk can be ironed damp for a smooth feel or can beworn with wrinkles and creases with equal panache.
The exquisiteness of muga silk can be guessed from the fact thatmore than 1,000 cocoons are needed to produce 125 grams of silk fibre. For onesix-yard muga silk saree, more than 1,000 grams of silk is needed. When youorder one muga silk saree, it takes at least two months to cultivate the silkwormsand then, two weeks to complete the weaving of the saree. In Assam, the Garocommunity cultivates the silk and provides the fabric to the weavers.
Apart from these silk fibres mentioned above, these are a fewexotic and rare silk fibres available all across the globe:a
Spider Silk Type
The spider silk is said to be the next big thing in fashion. It issaid to be five times stronger than steel and even more tensile than an elasticband. It is also speculated that thespider silk as strong as the toughest man-made polymer, Kevlar. The spider silkis essentially a protein fibre that the spiders use to spin a web, catch prey,and suspend themselves in air, to float through or even glide away frompredators.
It is very expensive and as per an estimate, it can come with aprice tag of $40,000 per kilogram.
However, it is not commercially viable yet as unlike silkworms, itdifficult to farm spiders. Besides, every single spider produces a differenttype of silk.
Sea Silk Type
Sea silk is derived from a clam. It is one of the much rarer andmost expensive silk fibres that come from now a protected species. There isonly one woman, Chiara Vigo, who dives into the sea, harvests it and spins it. This sea silk is also known as byssus, whichis also mentioned on the Rosetta stone. It is believed that God told Moses tolay this sea silk on the first altar. It is considered to be the finest fabricin Egypt, Rome and Greece. The sea silkfibre is treated with spices and juice initially. After the treatment, the silkjust shines and glistens in the sunlight.
The sea silk fibre comes from the solidified saliva of PinnaNobilis and is considered sacred. It is believed to bring good luck,prosperity, fertility and blessings of God. It is not for sale commercially andVigo never makes a penny for it. She does it for the kids, newlywed couples andpeople who are outcast and in dire need of a miracle from God.
People who tried to commercialise the sea silk failed miserably.
Types of Silk On the basis of silk yarn
Silk Blends
Silk blends are derived from mixing silkwith other fibres. The silk blends arethe best of both worlds! They have the lustre, sheen and wonderfully smoothtexture of silk minus the reactive properties and maintenance issues of silk.Some of the much-liked silk blends are:
- Cotton Silk
A blend of cotton and silk, cottonsilk is a synergy of positive characteristics of these two fibres. It islightweight, comfortable and silky. A fabric that comes with the versatility ofsilk and comfort of cotton, a piece of fabric that has the matte side of cottonand shine of silk! The silk-cotton blend can be washed manually at home.
- Silk Wool
Silk wool is a blend of wool and silkfibre. This blend is lightweight, has better moisture absorption and is wrinkleresistant minus the scratchiness of pure wool. The blend is used for bridal lingerie, home décor and high-endsportswear. This blend is highly durable and gives a crisp fit. The bodice ofsilk wool is very popular among celebrities and brides.
- Art Silk
Art silk or artificial silk asynthetic fibre that resembles silk for its sheen but is basically rayon as afunctional alternative to silk. However, it is not as durable or elegant assilk. It is also called bamboo silk or viscose. The imitation silk can be made with mercerized cotton, polyester orrayon. The famous Banglori silk is actually polyester that has silk-like sheenbut actually is a cheap and fake version of silk.
Difference between genuine silk and artificial silk
The sheen itself bears testimony to the authenticity of silk. Besides, the pure silk sarees come with Silk Mark India Certification by the Government of India. You can rub a handful of it together to determine the fabric makeup of the drape and assess the smoothness of the silk.
Types of Silk On the basis of Geographical Indication
A geographical indication is a signfor a product originated from a specific area or have a reputation oforiginating from the said place. A GI tag prevents third-parties from using theproduct name without conforming to the technical standards or code of practice.
Banarasi silk Type
Banarasi silk is made from puremulberry silk in the holy city of Kashi. Considered to be one of the finestdrapes in India and popular for their exquisite work of gold brocade andembroidery, these sarees have mogul inspired designs such as kalga, bel,flowers and peaco*cks intricately carved along the body of the sarees. Banarasi saree are available dime a dozen,both online and offline, at a different price point.
A Banarasi saree is an heirloom. Ittakes more than 15 days to weave a traditional six-yarder. A Banarasi saree with a GI tag and Silk MarkIndia is the perfect way to get the best value for your money and ensure thatyou invest in an authentic handloom.
Assam silk
Muga silk is one of the rarest typesof silk that is available only in Assam.
Bhagalpuri Silk
Bhagalpuri or tussar silk sarees aremade in Bhagalpur city, which is also famous as the silk city of India. Theweaves of tussar silk saree are more than a 100-year-old. The tussar silksarees are weaved by the community of more than 30,000 weavers in Bhagalpur cityworking on 25,000 handlooms. Thepopularity of Bhagalpuri silk sarees can be guessed from the turnover of thecity’s handloom industry, which is a whopping 100 crores, out of 80 per centcomes from export.
Kanchipuram Silk
Crafted in the Kanchipuram village in Tamil Nadu, Kanchipuram orKanjivaram sarees are an integral part of a bridal trousseau. It is themust-have sarees in weddings and festive occasions in Tamil Nadu, AndhraPradesh and Karnataka. More than 5,000 families are involved in the weaving ofthese silk sarees. It is believed that these Kanchi weavers are the descendantof the master weaver of Gods, Sage Markanda. The sarees have contrast zariborders, motifs of South Indian temples, paintings of Raja Ravi Verma, tales ofMahabharata and Ramayana.
Chanderi Silk Type
Chanderi silk sarees are crafted out of silk cotton, Chandericotton or pure silk fabrics. Marked with traditional coin, floral art, abstractgeometric pattern and peaco*cks in golden zari, these sarees have a smoothtexture, crispy fall and a rich feel. These are made in Chanderi village,Madhya Pradesh. It is believed that Shishupal, Lord Krishna’s cousin introducedthe fabric. The weave has enjoyed royal patronage for its elegant look andregal feel. The weave of the sarees is also called ‘woven air’ for beinglightweight and glossy texture.
Chinese Silk
China is the largest silk producer inthe world. Unfortunately, it is also notorious for flooding the Indian marketwith cheap polyester material that resembles silk and is often sold at a higherprice to dupe unsuspecting customers. However, when not sold as handloom, thisart silk variant is used by many commercial brands for making tops, shirts andwestern wear.
Thai Silk
Produced from the cocoons of Thaisilkworms, Thai silk is available in the market in two different varieties ofEri silk and mulberry silk. Besides, the GI tag, the Thai Agriculture Ministrymarks its silk with different peaco*ck emblems to protect the customers fromimitation and help them to buy the authentic silk.
- Gold Peaco*ck: It is a Royal Thai silk,a traditional handloom product.
- Silver Peaco*ck: Hand-made and made ofspecific silkworms
- Blue Peaco*ck: A pure silk product,however, allows chemical dyes and follows no particular production standards
- Green Peaco*ck: A silk-blend fabric
Types of Silk On the basis of fabric weaves
The silk yarns are weaved differently, in a different pattern of Sor Z, in a warp or weft combination, with one thread or multiple.
Silk Satin or Carmeuse
This silk fabric is medium-weight and has a satin-like feel. Thebackside of the fabric is dull. It is supple and smooth. It is used extensivelyin dressmaking and upholstery. It is the favourite of the designers for itssmooth and shiny texture. It is a top choice for bridal dresses and lingerie despiteit being slippery while stitching. Ifyou aren’t a fan of bright and shiny fabric that clings to your body as well,you would like to skip it altogether and stick to raw or tussar silk.
Chiffon Silk or Crepe Chiffon
Crepe chiffon is the soft and sheer fabric that has a matte feel.It falls a little loose on the body and is perfect to make those flowy gownsand evening dresses that you mostly see on celebrities. It comes in everycolour and print imaginable. The fabric is sheer and needs a lining if youdon’t want it to be transparent.
It is perhaps one of the most sensual varieties in silk that isdelicate and quite feminine. A lot of contemporary wear and sarees online aremade of chiffon. The chiffon sarees are lightweight and a Bollywood favourite.
Silk Shantung
Silk shantung is similar to dupion silk and is a bit heavyweight.The fabric is a bit coarse and slightly irregular in feel. It doesn’t getcreased easily and is airy in feel. In India, a varied version of it is knownas tussar silk.
Silk Organza
This crispy fabric is durable and has a loose weave. While thetexture of the fabric is smooth, it is fluffier, heavier and stiffer in nature.The fabric is transparent and gets creased easily. This fabric is perfect forlayered and ruffled sarees and designer party wear sarees.
Silk Brocade
The silk fabric is a blend and has a jacquard pattern woven on asatin base.
Georgette
This sheer and strong silk fabric made from silk and looks likechiffon except for its grainy texture. The georgette is also thicker in natureand gives a lean silhouette. It has become the preferred choice of manydesigners for its lightweight and sweat-absorbent properties. However, thefabric puckers easily and needs to be handled with care.
Silk Tissue
It is a type of silk organza but hasmetallic yarn woven on to the silk yarn, giving it a resplendent look. Thefabric has a crispy yet a fluffier look, making it perfect for a voluminouslehenga, evening gown and ready-to-wear sarees.
Spun Silk
Spun silk is made of waste silk fabricand has short fibres. It is made ofcocoons that are damaged or broke off during the processing of pure silk. It ismore heat-resistant than wool but not as durable or stronger.
Matka Silk
Made of waste mulberry silk, matka silk is a rough handloom silk fabric. The rough texture and medium-weight of matka silk make it easier to stitch. It is economical and a functional alternative to pure silk.
Types of SIlk On the basis of yarns used
Raw Silk
Raw silk is called ‘paat’, ‘resham’ or ‘pattu’ in Eastern India. Itis the most natural form of silk that can be directly woven into a variety offabrics. India is the second-largest manufacturer of raw silk after China.Pochampally and Bhagalpur are the major exporters of raw silk fibre. The rawsilk has an uneven texture yet is as magnificent as pure silk. Raw silk, however, needs to be stitched a bitlose as it is prone to linting when running close to the body.
Dupion Silk Type
Dupion silk is a crisp and plain weave. The fabric is weaved usingwarp and weft with different threads. The fabric looks resplendent and has an iridescentor two-tone effect. For instance, if you look at a pink dupion fabric, it willlook purple and red from different angles. This silk is a bit cheaper than pureor raw silk. The fabric is used extensively in crafting rich upholstery andsaree blouses for its shimmery effect. The fabric is strong but not as durable as thepure silk. It doesn’t wrinkle and has black specks of fabric in theweaving. It is easier to sew and you canfind printed, embroidered and plain dupion silk in the market. The surface ofthe fabric may pill and the loose end of the fabric frill easily.
Varanasi is the major manufacturer of the dupion silk.
Taffeta Silk
This silk is satin-like smooth and has a crisp feel. Its iridescenceis more pronounced and this is why it is used to craft wedding lehengas,evening gowns and anarkali suits with an opulent fall. The yarn-dyed taffeta is called paper silkand is crispier in feel.
Tussar Silk
It is a type of wild silk that has a natural gold finish. Many varieties of tussar silk are cultivatedin China, Japan, India and Sri Lanka.
Art Silk
Also called artificial silk, art silkis a synthetic fibre and is cheaper to produce. The art silk could be a blendof mercerized cotton, rayon or polyester with silk.
